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Author Topic:   Failed Ball Joint !! Major BS !
cdeluca99


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posted 06-15-2024 03:44 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for cdeluca99     send a private message to cdeluca99   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by cdeluca99
John I honestly don’t remember them looking factory. They were a little different from what I remember than the factory recall ones. I lost em while moving so I don’t have them anymore.
cdeluca99


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posted 06-15-2024 03:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for cdeluca99     send a private message to cdeluca99   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by cdeluca99
The taper yes, I believe the “relief” or “clearance” in the actual shaft UNDER the taper on the rare parts joint is what I didn’t like as well. Understandable it being necessary for suspension travel but it seemed a little much to me.

quote:
Originally posted by alrtg:
From my perspective, the taper on the stud needs to be identical to the original ball joint in order to fit properly. IF it were different in any way, modifications would be necessary to either the ball joint or other components to make them work together.

Rare Parts to the best of my knowledge has a good reputation for making quality parts. I have heard nothing bad regarding the company or their products.



This message has been edited by cdeluca99 on 06-15-2024 at 05:39 AM

alrtg




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posted 06-15-2024 07:59 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for alrtg     send a private message to alrtg   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by alrtg
Here is a screenshot from an earlier post within this thread.

It shows the difference between the stud on an Original Ball Joint and the Replacement Warranty version.

It appears that the Warranty version stud eliminated the reduction in the shaft diameter that the Original had just above the ball.


NOTE:
I have Edited this reply as I initially mistakenly thought that the warranty replacement ball joint was a Rare Parts item and posted it as such.

My apologies for any confusion or misinformation I may have subjected you to regarding this topic.

Had I been able to find a photo of a Rare Parts stud, I would have included it in my edited post.

This message has been edited by alrtg on 06-15-2024 at 07:27 PM

Tchootch

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posted 06-15-2024 08:52 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tchootch     send a private message to Tchootch   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tchootch
Rare Parts website is still showing a ball joint with the undercut.


Does anyone have a picture of the American Racing parts joint as sold by The Prowler Store? I know there's some ill feeling towards PS here, understandably maybe. But if they have a genuinely superior part it would be stupid to ignore it.

garysss





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posted 06-15-2024 09:09 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for garysss     send a private message to garysss   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by garysss
I thought the original ball joint problem was, no grease fitting, boot would tear, water could get in ball joint and rust. Which allowed the stud and base to wear, which made the stud pull out of base. I don't remember seeing any where the stud broke.
BeWare






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posted 06-15-2024 10:31 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for BeWare     send a private message to BeWare   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BeWare
quote:
Originally posted by Tchootch:
Rare Parts website is still showing a ball joint with the undercut.


Does anyone have a picture of the American Racing parts joint as sold by The Prowler Store? I know there's some ill feeling towards PS here, understandably maybe. But if they have a genuinely superior part it would be stupid to ignore it.


That could possibly be a generic picture.

BeWare






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posted 06-15-2024 10:37 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for BeWare     send a private message to BeWare   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BeWare
quote:
Originally posted by garysss:
I thought the original ball joint problem was, no grease fitting, boot would tear, water could get in ball joint and rust. Which allowed the stud and base to wear, which made the stud pull out of base. I don't remember seeing any where the stud broke.

That was my understanding as well. Was the ball joint from the Prowler Store separation tested like the Rare Parts was? I too would really like to know what is the best ball joints. I wonder if you can purchase the ball joints directly from American Racing and eliminate the middleman.

Tchootch

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posted 06-15-2024 04:55 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tchootch     send a private message to Tchootch   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tchootch
I haven't found any reference to American Racing Parts on the internet. Only on the PS website, where it says they are exclusive to PS.

If anyone has bought any, did they come with paperwork with contact details for American Racing?

BeWare






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posted 06-15-2024 08:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BeWare     send a private message to BeWare   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BeWare
I couldn’t find anything about American Racing Parts manufacturing ball joints either. I have to wonder why.
ed monahan






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posted 06-15-2024 09:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ed monahan     send a private message to ed monahan   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ed monahan
I will NEVER buy anything from the Prowler store due to their past business practices and rip offs. There are waaay too many instances for it all to be B S or a plot. The deal with the trailer hitch was enough to convince me, not to mention the center caps, the mud flaps and their horrible reputation for returns. If I found out their ball joints were MUCH better than the Rare Parts, I still wouldn't buy from them. They probably ripped off that design, also. Plus they sell really chintzy crap at exorbitant prices like the grills, etc.
Everyone is free to do what they like but for the guys that have been here for 20 yrs or so, I doubt if you will find many fans of theirs.
Richnew41



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posted 06-16-2024 06:49 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Richnew41     send a private message to Richnew41   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Richnew41
I think Gary’s post earlier was spot on… I too believe the failures were caused by the boot they used and no grease fitting … It was the same material that was used on the front sway bars and bushings and look what happened to those….
The material they used was substandard and frankly just defective. There’s not a ball joint on the planet that will operate and not fail without grease and exposure to water.
garysss





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posted 06-16-2024 08:25 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for garysss     send a private message to garysss   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by garysss
I agree with Rich, I polished the a-arms on my 99 purple myself. It looks better then stock, but doesn't compare to chrome. Mine had the clear coat finish that was peeling, so I tried the polishing myself, figured I had nothing to lose. I did them on the car, which limited my access to some areas.
Dick Henry


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posted 06-16-2024 10:21 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dick Henry     send a private message to Dick Henry   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Dick Henry
I was lucky enough to get Gary to chrome my front suspension. It looks fantastic however it’s not maintenance free. To keep it looking good you need to remove the wheel & clean it periodically otherwise water spots, etc will compromise the finish.
I had originally drilled & tapped a grease fitting into the factory replacement ball joints. Seemed to work pretty well. Then later I went ahead & replaced both upper & lower front ball joints with the Rare Parts joints.
Since I was going to some car shows & wanting to highlight the front & rear suspension I removed the rear A-arms, etc & polished them. That’s the only way to do it properly & is much less of a hassle. I had to sand the casting marks out of the rear suspension to get a smooth finish then I polished them. I also used 5,000 grit sand paper on the frame to give it a satin finish. I then coated everything in a clear coat to protect the finish. If you don’t the aluminum will water spot & dull. Now all that’s required for cleaning is to wipe it off. Just like a coated mag wheel. While I had it apart I replaced the rear ball joints with the Rare Parts also.
I shouldn’t have to worry about any ball joint failures on this car in my lifetime.
In my opinion Rare Parts is a reputable company that’s been around awhile & produces well made products. Why take a chance on some company you can’t find.






garysss





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posted 06-16-2024 11:17 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for garysss     send a private message to garysss   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by garysss
Looks great Dick!

I polished the rear on my 01, but only did what you can see from behind the car. I did not have a lift at the that time, so I did it laying on the ground. I'M not a big car show guy, so I only did where average person can see. I have a lift now, but lacking motivation as I get older. LOL 👴😀

This message has been edited by garysss on 06-16-2024 at 11:18 AM

Dick Henry


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posted 06-16-2024 01:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Dick Henry     send a private message to Dick Henry   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Dick Henry
Thanks for the compliment. The 1st time I polished everything like you did. It was a pain doing it on the floor, odd angles, etc. Actually it was just as much or maybe more work doing it that way. But by doing it that way you don’t have to polish everything or get an alignment. The rear wheel actually hides most of the suspension so unless you get on the ground & stick your head under there people won’t know it’s not polished. Actually I’m pretty sure driving down the road yours looks just as good as mine. Since I replaced the ball joints, bushings, new cross-link stabilizers, I just kept going. Really all that didn’t need to be replaced but sometimes I get lost in the twilight zone. I love to show it off but I won’t be doing all that work again. Sometimes my wants exceed my abilities. My advice, drive it, wash it, drive it some more. After a few more car shows that’s my plan.
Stray Cat





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posted 06-17-2024 07:09 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Stray Cat     send a private message to Stray Cat   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Stray Cat
The most amazing thing about Dick's car is that he DOES drive it, has gotten caught in bad weather and it STILL looks like that. Absolutely amazing! Beautiful car that wins the shows he enters it in.

John

BeWare






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posted 06-17-2024 11:39 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for BeWare     send a private message to BeWare   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BeWare
In 2007 I polished my rear frames. I also ground off the casting ridges on the back side of the lower control arms and polished them. Lastly I polished my stainless steel Borla tailpipes . I did this with the car on Jack stands while lying on my back. The two rear braces are actually chrome plated.



BeWare






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posted 06-17-2024 11:42 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for BeWare     send a private message to BeWare   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BeWare

Tomcal



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posted 06-19-2024 06:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tomcal     send a private message to Tomcal   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tomcal
quote:
Originally posted by kat hunter:
So, after reviewing the above pictures I am left wondering if we are going backwards using the Rare Parts ball joints. Is there a better option? The rareparts look to have the same taper as the originals.

Correction: spelling - HOWE Racing

This topic seems to have gotten off course with chrome. (I like chrome). Let's bring it back to kat hunter's original question. I'll also try to summarize many of the reply comments posted.

The taper in the lower ball joint is actually called an under-cut. It was used in the original Prowler ball joints that were recalled.

Replacement ball joint under recall campaign did not use the undercut. Chrysler stated it was not necessary. So, suspension travel concerns had no effect on original or replacement ball joint.

Kat hunter, Rare Parts ball joint is NOT going backward. Its pull-out strength is considerable higher than either the original Prowler ball joint or its recall replacement as has been posted here. So, there are no design concerns with Rare Parts.

As we are well aware, Prowler recall replacement ball joint stilled continued to fail. Thus, a search for a quality aftermarket replacement was launched. Cat-a-Tonic had extensive conversations with Rare Parts and they agreed to produce a better quality ball joint for our Prowlers. He deserves a great deal of credit for his efforts.

The Prowler Store, (AKA, Hot Car Accessories, Inc), then came along and also introduced a replacement ball joint. They claim it's made by "American Racing Parts company". I cannot find any such company in a Google search. Either could BeWare. Doesn't mean it doesn't exist.

However, there is a company called Howe Racing that produces a remarkable similar ball joint to the Prowler Store.


HoweRacing28thEdition



Note the signature copper stud. and design of housing. Not saying that Howie Racing makes this for Prowler Store, but the resemblance is amazing. Also note, Howie Racing lists Bobby Archer Motorsports as exclusive distributer. Found no website for him and have not tried the phone number.

Personally, after review both companies' products, IMHO I see no significant differences that would affect performance. Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. Who's going to crawl under car to look at ball joint. Note; both designs use castle nuts and cotter pins that rust and doesn't look very good. That's more of a cosmetic concern. There are ways to get around that rust problem.

Thought I saw a new picture of Rare Parts ball joint with a nylon lock nut instead of castle nut, but their catalogue is showing castle nut.

I personally like to support our POA members and buy products they produce or work tirelessly and diligently to have produced. Rare Parts fits these criteria.

Be advised that whichever you choose, unlike Chrysler/Prowler OEM design, these are metal on metal gusset ball joints that require frequent greasing. A quality grease with high Moly content is required. Think CV joint type grease.

This message has been edited by Tomcal on 06-23-2024 at 11:15 AM

Richnew41



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posted 06-19-2024 07:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Richnew41     send a private message to Richnew41   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Richnew41
It just so happens that I’m presently in the middle of adding new ball joints to the new chromed A-arms… That said, I ordered Rare Parts for both upper and lower…. The lower does not have a castle nut or hole for a cotter pin. It comes with a nut with a cupped side which I have never seen before (I’m not sure if the cup goes up or down into the knuckle???? Also the cup diameter is large then the washer hole so I’m assuming it goes up ( see below pic )…. Anyone ever seen this????
Also, the upper ball joints are larger in size (as far as the seated/Zerk side). The uppers do have the castle nut…. Also,
The Prowler cover cap does not come anywhere near fitting onto it both in diameter and height.

cdeluca99


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posted 06-20-2024 07:39 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for cdeluca99     send a private message to cdeluca99   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by cdeluca99
Those are the same ones I had. I left them at the body shop I think. I have the PS ones. Hater’s gonna hate but I have never had any issues with those guys.
Tomcal



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posted 06-20-2024 12:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Tomcal     send a private message to Tomcal   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Tomcal
quote:
Originally posted by Richnew41:
It just so happens that I’m presently in the middle of adding new ball joints to the new chromed A-arms… That said, I ordered Rare Parts for both upper and lower…. The lower does not have a castle nut or hole for a cotter pin. It comes with a nut with a cupped side which I have never seen before (I’m not sure if the cup goes up or down into the knuckle???? Also the cup diameter is large then the washer hole so I’m assuming it goes up ( see below pic )…. Anyone ever seen this????
Also, the upper ball joints are larger in size (as far as the seated/Zerk side). The uppers do have the castle nut…. Also,
The Prowler cover cap does not come anywhere near fitting onto it both in diameter and height.


Well, I guess I did see the RP newer design picture somewhere. Not sure why their catalogue shows older design. This "A" version has retainers for upper and lower part of boot to keep grease in and contaminates out. Eliminating castle nut and cotter pin gives a much cleaner look to our open front suspension Prowlers. I like this revised design a lot.

P.S. your right, cup side up.


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