posted 01-15-2006 07:57 PM                  

I'm working on figuring out the ball joints. i'm going over to the Harbor Freight store to see what they have.

As far as the top bolt, I think if you take the top shock bolt out first the lever will move more so the bolt will clear. I'm assuming your body panels are off already.

posted 01-15-2006 09:44 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by MDProwler:
Actually I just welded a washer on the pipe so I wouldn't leave marks on the a-arm. It still slips over the stud. The washer on the bolt head is just to keep it from slipping off the ball joint stud. I see I'm not the only one making tools.lol

I'm working on figuring out the ball joints. i'm going over to the Harbor Freight store to see what they have.

As far as the top bolt, I think if you take the top shock bolt out first the lever will move more so the bolt will clear. I'm assuming your body panels are off already.

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For the bottom ball joint, I took a piece of thick wall pipe
that the joint would fit through and put it against the bottom of the a arm (after I got it off) and put the arm in a press.
Leave the rubber boot on the joint and push on the stud, it will come right out.
The upper is a different story.
You will have to drive a medium size screwdriver down (about 1/8 to 3/16) between the side of the boot and the arm.
Pull it to the side and up at the same time, the boot will jump up on the other side.
Pull the boot off and put a pipe or socket on the "body" of the ball joint and push it out.
The stud pushes through the a arm, DO NOT push on this stud, push on the body after you get the boot off.
Now for the top bolt in the push rod.
You will have to take both top and bottom bolts out of the shock, so you can move the cam arm (or what ever you want to call it) over enough to get the top bolt out of the push rod.
Don't forget when putting it back together, to put the upper a arm on then the top bolt in the push rod first.
I took the numbers off the bottom of the arms and wrote them down on paper so it would be easy to tell what came from what side.
Also mark the head of the bolt and frame on the top a arm so you can get the aliment back close when you put it together.
One more thing,
When you tighten the a arm bolts, have the arm at about the same angle as it will be when the weight is on the wheels.
Well another thing that may help,
the guy that chromed my arms, chromed it with all the bushing still in the arm.
Don't try to press them out.
Maybe we should move this to the Technical Questions & Answers!

posted 01-16-2006 06:03 AM                  

Good info for sure. I will be pressing mine out today but was concerned about pushing on the stud of either of the ball joints.

posted 01-16-2006 06:56 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by ed monahan:
Gary, are you having the front end bronzed?

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Copper

Wipe that smile off my face dammit!

posted 01-16-2006 07:02 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by ed monahan:
Gary, are you having the front end bronzed?

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Copper

Wipe that smile off my face dammit!

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shhh- i got to be careful-jeffy might be watching

posted 11-21-2010 11:42 AM                  

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Originally posted by catfish:
no photos,using the tool above you should be able to push both joints out,leave nuts in place by a few threads, do one and pop it loose and do the other.if that doesnt work take lower off first,put jack under lower arm,put end of tool on arm,because lower joint is already out and push against arm,should work.take photos if it works.

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Thanks Jan... I'll make up a tool this week probably give it a shot next weekend... got to take the strut and the tie rod end off also... is there any tension on the strut when I jack up the front ?