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Author Topic:   cracked front fender
diamondwymond


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From:Lake Cormorant
Registered: Nov 2009
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posted 06-18-2011 11:06 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for diamondwymond     send a private message to diamondwymond   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by diamondwymond
I'm getting what appears to be a stress crack in my lf fender, right by the forward most mounting bolt. its about an inch or so long. Does anybody know how to fiv w/o replacing?
idive


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posted 06-19-2011 12:34 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for idive     send a private message to idive   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by idive
You say here its the left front. I saw in the classified you are loooking for a right front. Any relation in the two?

I THINK Don Ward has mentioned he can fix them.

This message has been edited by idive on 06-19-2011 at 12:36 AM

jimsutton



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posted 06-19-2011 07:06 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for jimsutton     send a private message to jimsutton   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by jimsutton
A lot of vibration on the front fenders .. If you want to try a repair I would remove it then clean the inside along the crack - next sand at least a inch on each side of the crack if possible use #80 grit sand paper of the crack , clean a gain with acetone then cut two or more fiberglass strips over lapping the crack mix up fiberglass resin brush on the sanded area then soak the fiberglass strips and apply them press out air bubbles with mixing stick and let dry .Be carfull not to get any resin on the outer painted side of the finder .. I would try this before buying a new finder it will some work but could be a real money saver for your fix ...
catfish




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From:scottsdale,az,usa
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posted 06-19-2011 09:51 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for catfish     send a private message to catfish   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by catfish
to get rid of the crack permanently,use the fix above on both sides of the fdr.yes you will have to repaint fdr,otherwise just live with it.if the crack extends to the mtg brkt,the brkt must come off .the brkt is held on with huck rivets,you can buy them but the tool to install them is a couple thousand dollars.you can also use stovebolts to reattach brkt.those are your options.im assuming you want to fix the crack so its not visible..smc-sheet molded compound just doesnt crack on its own,ost likely was run into at sometime.its the only thing that will crack it.could have been very minor hit.

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This message has been edited by catfish on 06-19-2011 at 09:53 AM

lionberger

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posted 06-19-2011 01:14 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for lionberger     send a private message to lionberger   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by lionberger
If you want to stop the crack you need to "stop drill" a small hole at each end (where possible). Go about a mm past the end of the crack. This relieves the stress or else it will just come back. We use this method in aviation and works for plexiglass, aluminum or any substance with a crack. Once this is done you can repair it using any method above.
padroo



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posted 06-19-2011 08:09 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
"stop drill" sounds like an old airframe mechanic to me. To take it one step further, I would V out the crack and use all the advice from the above posts. This is a high stress area and a little build up on the backside would not hurt for strength.

Graduate of Pittsburgh Institute of Aeronautics, class of 1974

lionberger

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posted 06-20-2011 06:01 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for lionberger     send a private message to lionberger   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by lionberger
[QUOTE]Originally posted by padroo:
[B]"stop drill" sounds like an old airframe mechanic to me."

Guilty as charged.

This message has been edited by lionberger on 06-20-2011 at 06:01 AM

jimsutton



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posted 06-20-2011 07:35 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for jimsutton     send a private message to jimsutton   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by jimsutton
V-out the crack is a good idea depending how thick the finder is ?? I know that we always do that when welding hi pressure seal Gas pipelines for better penetration. but a 50/50% chance on your fender .. Florida Gas Transmission.40 yrs+
padroo



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posted 06-20-2011 06:10 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
Millwright 36 years and I do weld.
diamondwymond


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From:Lake Cormorant
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posted 06-21-2011 11:24 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for diamondwymond     send a private message to diamondwymond   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by diamondwymond
Hey ya'll are a swell bunch of folks. Thank you for the tips. yeah i think its at least worth a try to repair, since i found out new ones are 800 and up. i can now understand why some folks run w/o fenders.
But mine is a daily driver. So i guess i'll try repairing while i save up.
I have an admission (not a confession), i might have caused it because a few months ago i noticed the fender looked like it was sagging, and i pulled up on it not realizing it's fiberglass, in an effort to get rid of the sag appearance. Maybe i dont know my strength, huh. OR the tire man could have caused it while the wheel was off getting re-tired. Either way it sucks. I was taking such pride in the fact that i hadnt broken anything on this car by tightening too much or some other idiocy.
I musta been stoned, it absolutely is the RF.
thank you each for the advice & tips. I'll be happy to dance at your kids' weddings.

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