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toys	Hey Guys Does anyone have the OEM # for the Prowler trailer lock?? Thanks in advance toys
jjprowler	Here you go Willie 4778 147 Deck lid lock and 4848 692 Gasket
toys	jjprowler I just bought another trailer & it didn't have the key I tried to get a new lock & my dealer went nuts looking for the part #. I'll get it to him & see if he can get me a new one, then I'll just drill out the old one. Had a locksmith over today & he seems to think it's frozen up so he sprayed it, loaded it with graghite & will have his boss back over on Monday to give it a shot. thanks loads toys
TLRandall	Willie, the Purple trailer's lock was frozen when I bought it, the locksmith ended up drilling it out and replacing it. I will look for the box if you need the number.
toys	TLR Hopefully the #'s jjprowler gave me are good & I should know by morning, but just for ha's ha's if want to confirm it, thanks for the offer toys
Steve Conley	I was told that the trailer lock was the Viper rear hatch lock. No idea what year. That"s why the Mopar key fits.
toys	Jon, TLR, Jeff, & Steve Thanks for the input, I'm trying to get this trailer out for paint and needed to get it opened, so I will just drill it out my self before I have to pay the locksmith a second time. Willie toys
toys	Well I got the trailer lid open after drilling out the lock. the problem now is that the entire lock cable assembly is FUBAR also, apparently salt air & long storage took it toll on all the components. I'm Glad I tested the latch with a screwdriver to see if it would work the latch before closing the lid or I would have been screwed & not have been able to open it again after it closed. I need the OEM numbers for the complete latch cable assembly as it seems to be one piece & the return spring is completely corroded & in several pieces with the cable also binding, The latch itself might be able to be freed up. If all else fails I have a Prowler rear deck latch assembly with the emergency pull cable,(the same # as the trailer latch except for the solenoid ) All I would have to do is get the latch button for it & do away with the key assembly all together & tap off one of the power wires when hooked up to the car or just pull the emergency cable to open when not powered. would rather keep it stock but I am ready with an alternate fix toys
toys	I took the rear deck lid release button & harness out of one of my Prowlers & hooked it up on my trailer along with the Prowler rear deck latch assembly & it works like a charm, push the button & it pops open toys
toys	jjprowler Jon A very Big Thank You!!! I received your gift yesterday I was able to find Part #s most dealer's I called couldn't find for me. Thanks so much toys
UK ProwlerFan	Hi folks, I have just bought a Prowler Trailer and the key broke off in the lock so the previous owner drilled it out and removed all the external bits and junked them. I can open it fine with a flat bladed screwdriver as the latch assembly seems nice and free, but now need to order the correct bits to replace the lock. Following advice on other POA topics, I looked on the internet have found part numbers 4778 147 - description "CYL LOCK DECK LID LO" for $26.16 and 4848 692 - description "GASKET KEY CYLINDER" for $37.02, all at Global Chrysler Parts. Unfortunately the guy I spoke to was not able to do much to help, so I was hoping another member could explain what I need to buy and whether keys come included or I need to get a locksmith to set it all up? Any advice gratefully received as it is a long way and very expensive to have stuff shipped only to find it is wrong, or not needed. UKPF
alrtg	Graphite is a good lubricant when applied in moderation. The down side is that it is a solid and most people feel that if a little is good, a lot must be better.....WRONG! What happens when to much is used? It fills up the area's that the pins (or "tumblers") move up an down in. The result is the pins do not move and the key will not operate properly. It is kind of like filling your piston cylinder bores in an engine and expecting it to run without any issues. I would suggest that when lubricating a lock cylinder on your trailer, car, house or anything else...use WD40 or it's equivalent. WD40 is a liquid lubricant that will flush out most contaminants from the lock and the excess will evaporate leaving a film of lubrication behind. Keep in mind that when using a liquid lubricant some residue will be on the key when you remove it from the cylinder. It will rub off on your clothes and most likely create a real good stain that may be difficult to remove. If you find your key is getting more difficult to go in and/or out of the cylinder, give it a squirt of WD40. You may be astonished at the immediate difference a little lubrication can make. By the way, I have been employed as a Locksmith going on twenty-three years. (1979-1999 then 2007-current) I worked auto parts for years also so I know just enough to get in trouble or stay out of it.LOL I hope this helps. quote: Originally posted by toys: jjprowler I just bought another trailer & it didn't have the key I tried to get a new lock & my dealer went nuts looking for the part #. I'll get it to him & see if he can get me a new one, then I'll just drill out the old one. Had a locksmith over today & he seems to think it's frozen up so he sprayed it, loaded it with graghite & will have his boss back over on Monday to give it a shot. thanks loads toys
toys	quote: Originally posted by alrtg: Graphite is a good lubricant when applied in moderation. The down side is that it is a solid and most people feel that if a little is good, a lot must be better.....WRONG! What happens when to much is used? It fills up the area's that the pins (or "tumblers") move up an down in. The result is the pins do not move and the key will not operate properly. It is kind of like filling your piston cylinder bores in an engine and expecting it to run without any issues. I would suggest that when lubricating a lock cylinder on your trailer, car, house or anything else...use WD40 or it's equivalent. WD40 is a liquid lubricant that will flush out most contaminants from the lock and the excess will evaporate leaving a film of lubrication behind. Keep in mind that when using a liquid lubricant some residue will be on the key when you remove it from the cylinder. It will rub off on your clothes and most likely create a real good stain that may be difficult to remove. If you find your key is getting more difficult to go in and/or out of the cylinder, give it a squirt of WD40. You may be astonished at the immediate difference a little lubrication can make. By the way, I have been employed as a Locksmith going on twenty-three years. (1979-1999 then 2007-current) I worked auto parts for years also so I know just enough to get in trouble or stay out of it.LOL I hope this helps. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> alrtg I'm sorry & I beg to differ with you but you might want to do some research on WD-40 it is one of the worst products you can ever use on a car lock, maybe good for a Quick fix for frozen door hinges, locks, nuts, bolts etc, but if you do use it make sure you get an air hose & blow out the WD40 & make sure you add a little graphite after to your lock This is from the locksmith who was going to work on my lock & a 5th generation locksmith whose family has been in lock business for close to 70 years. WD40 is scented Kerosene & will wash away any lubricant that is in the lock or whatever & then later gum it up, collect dust & grime, My locksmith used a product called break-away with graphite & it still didn't help because my problem was with the lock mechanism being frozen not the lock Also their may issues with newer cars with chips in the Keys toys This message has been edited by toys on 09-01-2009 at 03:27 PM
toys	Mike the Key assembly will come with out the keys & you will have to have them keyed by a locksmith, just have them key it to your cars key. Hope this helps
alrtg	Toys is right about WD40 not being a lubricant. It was not designed as such. I use another product specifically made to lubricate locks but mentioned WD40 as it seems to be a generic term that most people understand. Sorry for any mis-direction. My point was not to use to much graphite when you use it. I am still new at locksmithing. I only have 23 plus years in the industry.
Chi_Town_Prowler	You can STILL get the original trailer locks from the dealer. I bought a couple last year.
toys	Mike This is what came with my lock assembly, it will have to be re-keyed. I hope this helps you, I also e-mailed some other pics. [img]http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/image_uploads /dsc08518.jpg[/img] toys
toys	quote: Originally posted by toys: Mike This is what came with my lock assembly, it will have to be re-keyed. I hope this helps you, I also e-mailed some other pics. [img]http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/image_uploads /dsc08518.jpg[/img] toys this pic didn't load from the original post
toys	Mike the pics don't really show it well but it comes with a chrome & black lock bezel. toys
cagey	I bought a trailer and the transport company dropped the key off before it got to me. It took three locksmiths to get it open. It was not "frozen", it required a locksmith with better skills to open it. The 1st locksmith tried for a half hour and then sent me to a second place he said had more experience with Chrysler locks ( no charge he couldn't do the job). At the 2nd place they worked on it for 30 - 40 minutes and then the guy's dad who was retired arrived and he got it in about 15 - 20 minutes.