Archive: Another tip - Lots of pics - remove Clip spring and booth from Old Ball Joint before pressing out - - ProwlerOnline, Plymouth/Chrysler Prowler Discussion Forum

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Prowler Ball Joint Recall

Another tip - Lots of pics - remove Clip spring and booth from Old Ball Joint before pressing out - (Page 2)

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Author	Topic: Another tip - Lots of pics - remove Clip spring and booth from Old Ball Joint before pressing out -
Laddie Roussel Prowler Junkie Posts: 3463 From: Hester, LA. USA Registered: JUL 2000	posted 04-22-2003 09:13 PM Ball Joint Recall Performed Successfully in Louisiana today. Clay (the front end and Break tech - not Prowler tech) at Causeway did the first Recall for Lower Ball Joints today. Total time took just under 2 Hrs. Although, 2nd wheel only took 20 to 25 minutes. It was done successfully and no damage to my Prowler. However, Clay did encounter one problem. The instructions didn't call to remove the Clip Spring and booth before removing (pressing out) old Lower Ball Joint (he's had to do this on some trucks - thought about it and the instructions didn't call for it so he didn't). The Ball joint came out find but, the clip spring got caught in the special Prowler tool. He could not extract the tool and ended up pressing the special Prowler tool out of the lower A-arm from the bottom using the C-Clamp and some other special bushings from his tool supply (not associated with the Prowler) on the top of the lower A-Arm. This problem could easily contribute to damaged A-Arms problems depending on how someone tried to extract the Special tool out of the A-Arm after the Clip Spring gets wedged into the tool. Clay spent over 30 minutes working on the extraction of the tool from the first wheel Lower A-arm... No damage to my Kat but, easy to see how it could occur. This thing was really stuck in the A-arm. He removed the Clip spring on next wheel and the old ball joint pressed out easier and he was able to remove the special Prowler tool by hand. Took less than 25 minutes total time (start to finish) on 2nd wheel. Oh, we did have one center cap with one broken tab. Thanks to Clay and Duane (service mgr) for allowing me to take all the pics and watch the process. Here's the pics: Clip Spring. Old ball joint with clip spring and booth removed. Pressing out old ball joint... pressing our old ball joint ... new ball joint pressing in new ball joint ... Torquing new lower ball joint ... ------------------ This message has been edited by Laddie Roussel on 04-22-2003 at 10:03 PM
Laddie Roussel Prowler Junkie Posts: 3463 From: Hester, LA. USA Registered: JUL 2000	posted 04-22-2003 09:21 PM More pics of ball joint recall... Prowler tool kit... remove wheel remove brake caliper remove fender Disconnect steering rod remove lower ball joint nut do not need to remove upper ball joint or loosen nut ...
Laddie Roussel Prowler Junkie Posts: 3463 From: Hester, LA. USA Registered: JUL 2000	posted 04-22-2003 09:33 PM some of the tools from Prowler tool kit being used to seperate lower ball joint from lower A-arm old ball joint ready to be pressed out ... new ball joint and old ball joint C-clamp upper in place C-clamp with rachet wrench to press out old ball joint ... old ball joint pressed out ... ready for new ball joint ... This message has been edited by Laddie Roussel on 04-22-2003 at 09:45 PM
ALLEY CAT Prowler Junkie Posts: 36093 From: Mesa, Az Registered: JUL 2000	posted 04-22-2003 09:39 PM Laddie - EXCELLENT JOB Thanks,,,going to print out to take along. Never thought I'd see a 4X4 come into place on this recall ------------------ Call 911 - there is a Prowler in my garage.... LARRY SALZMAN - MESA, ARIZONA This message has been edited by ALLEY CAT on 04-22-2003 at 09:40 PM
Laddie Roussel Prowler Junkie Posts: 3463 From: Hester, LA. USA Registered: JUL 2000	posted 04-22-2003 09:39 PM new ball joint new ball joint being pressed in with C-clamp tool ... new nut for new ball joint ... torque lower ball joint to 70 to 75 lbs (don't remember exact figure from instructions) ... reconnect steering rod ...
dpena Administrating Kat Posts: 5359 From: San Jose Ca Santa Clara Registered: JUL 2000	posted 04-22-2003 11:31 PM Laddie, EXCELLENT!! You beat me to it!! How did you convince them to allow you to do it?? The service guy at my dealer was all freaked out about getting fired. Now that I see your pics, I realized why they did not want me to take pics ... The tool you have here called the C clamp is not what they used. They used the expanding tool which was placed between the upper and lower ball joint stud. Your guy seems to have taken great care in removing the ball joint. My front was completly split appart. Thank you Laddie for the time and effort you put into this. I think not many dealers want to purchase the C clamp and wing it and get damaged A arms. GREAT JOB!!
c.mangeng Prowler Junkie Posts: 419 From: Port Orchard, WA, USA Registered: FEB 2003	posted 04-22-2003 11:33 PM Please tell me your brake caliper is not hanging from the brake hose while this job was being done. I could be sitting on the ground, but it sure looks like it's just dangling in the air....not usually done by competent mechanics. Would be another reason to sit and observe the job as many have suggested.
Larry Lord Prowler Junkie Posts: 3709 From: Colton, CA Registered: JUL 2000	posted 04-23-2003 12:21 AM Laddie, Excellent job on the pictures! did you ever get in touch with John Shakarian before having Clay do the job?
Todd Cameron unregistered Posts: 3709 From: Colton, CA Registered: JUL 2000	posted 04-23-2003 04:05 PM thanks for posting those pics Laddie. C mangeng... just what in your opinion should the Mech be doing with the Caliper?
GRROWL Prowler Junkie Posts: 2404 From: Herndon, VA Registered: FEB 2002	posted 04-23-2003 04:29 PM Yes, I cringed as well when I saw those calipers hanging. Per Service Manual: "WHEN HANGING THE DISK BRAKE CALIPER FROM THE CONTROL ARM, DO NOT USE WIRE OR ANY SIMILAR MATERIAL THAT WOULD DAMAGE THE ANODIZED FINISH. A PLASTIC TIE STRAP IS A SUITABLE METHOD OF SUPPORTING THE DISK BRAKE CALIPER." I originally posted this last summer as part of a ceramic brake pad post. If anyone's interested: http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/000753.html -GRROWL This message has been edited by GRROWL on 04-23-2003 at 04:30 PM
Laddie Roussel Prowler Junkie Posts: 3463 From: Hester, LA. USA Registered: JUL 2000	posted 04-23-2003 05:49 PM Larry. I have John's #. Didn't contact him yet. Told Clay about the extra bushing for use with the A-arm covers... When we do the Red, I'll give John a call... Thanks Dan. I've taken pictures of all the installs and work done by the techs at the dealership over the last 3 & 1/2 years. Never been a problem here...
Kraut Prowler Junkie Posts: 1300 From: Plymouth, MI Registered: OCT 2002	posted 04-24-2003 09:37 AM Outstanding job on the pictures. Like AC, I plan to print this out and take it with me to get mine done.
c.mangeng Prowler Junkie Posts: 419 From: Port Orchard, WA, USA Registered: FEB 2003	posted 04-24-2003 06:01 PM Todd, usually we support them with wire, but on the prowler I would use zip ties, so the brake lines don't get stressed or damaged. The photographer did an excellent job many thanks on the ball joint recall pictures. Todd, I'm sorry I gave you some bad info on the prowler for sale in Bremerton. I noticed it was still there at my last service, so asked if you had called. I was informed that the Sales manager had given me bad information (he lied to me). Oh...he's no longer a sales manager. They still have the car and have a "sale" sign on it for $44K. I think they like it on the floor, makes a very attractive dust collector, but would look better on the road. I tried to email an apology but it got sent back as undeliverable. Hope your having good luck with the car purchases.