posted 12-29-2010 08:58 AM                  

Maybe Tom (TLRandall) can comment here.

I loaded my new Prowler into one of my trailers last night for final transport to my house (we have 1/4 mile of dirt road which I will not drive the Prowler on). First, I found that there are not really any good tie down points up front to hook to. I ended up going around the lower A-Arm with the tie strap for now. I don't like that though.

At the rear, I put the tie straps around the crossmember directly below the transmission, which seemed to work out okay. Have to make sure the tie strap stays away from the bolts that hang down though.

Typically, I like to tow my cars in neutral so the slight rocking doesn't wear on the transmission parking pawl. Basically, I don't want it to break the parts that keep the car from rolling while in park. My plan was to set the parking brake, put the car in neutral and go. However, I found that you can't take the key out of the ignition when the car is in neutral. The gauge cluster remains on too, so it's not an option to just leave the key in - I'll have a dead battery before long. I thought of installing a battery cutoff switch and just leaving the key in, but then the entire car will get electrically reset every time I go to drive it.

So, my questions are:

Where are the best tie down points on the car, front and rear?

Is there any way to leave the car in neutral, take the key out and have everything be off?

posted 12-29-2010 09:29 AM                  

I have to lay down on the trailer floor next to the car to reach the front tie down points, and be really careful reaching in to loop them as they are right next to the exhaust! Once you look under the car, you can see and reach them well.

posted 12-29-2010 12:13 PM                  

Would sure love to tow it in neutral. There may be a battery disconnect in my future...

posted 12-29-2010 05:30 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by fibertop:
I had the same problem tieing down the fronts. If I was doing alot of it I would install logistics tracking in front and behaind the front wheels and use the wheel straps that go over the tire.

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posted 12-29-2010 05:57 PM                  

We use this in transport trailers to secure loads. It is very strong. You can get wheels hold down straps that have hardware that fit into this track and have ratchet style tighteners.

posted 12-29-2010 08:13 PM                  

The cars have four 5000 pound "D" Rings each mounted to the floor at the strap locations. When you strap the cars down using the published method, there is no movement of the car whatsoever. If you just strap the wheels or leave it in neutral, you have upwards movement or in the second case, no additional protection in the event of a strap failure. The front is not that hard to get to if you have a wide trailer, it's just easier if you lay down to reach the frame points. I lay out the front straps on the floor before I drive in so all I have to do is reach under and loop them over the frame, they are right there.

posted 12-29-2010 08:17 PM                  

I do however understand the 1/4 mile dirt road avoidance.

posted 12-29-2010 09:05 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by alrtg:

It sounds like springing for 1320 feet of asphalt may be in someone's future.

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posted 12-29-2010 09:20 PM                  

I have every intention of going directly to the frame on the Prowler, but according to the diagrams Tom posted, getting to the front is going to be a major pain in the ass...

posted 12-29-2010 09:20 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by Blown632Monte:
With pavement about a million bucks a mile here in CA and the fact that we intend to move closer to our work and families as soon as possible, it's not likely...

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I did not realize that it was so expensive to pave anything out there.....bummer.
The part that really stinks is that you can't simply fire up the car and go for a quick ride when the mood strikes.
It is sort of like taking the boat out when it is stored in your driveway an hour from the boat ramp VS having it on a lift at your own dock.

I guess the upside is that when you do take it out, it will be for a good ride. I know you will truly enjoy the car and envy your ability to drive it across the country like you did.

P.S.
I sent you a PM with a possible idea regarding securing the car when towing. I hope it helps is some way.

posted 12-29-2010 09:56 PM                  

Joe, once you figure the best way reach it in your trailer, it will be easy. Jason and I had the two cars loaded & strapped the other day in just a few minutes. Takes an hour if we load everything. We are going to redesign the way we carry the go karts, those are a real pain to load right now. I have got to figure out a better way to stack those little cars!!!

alrtg, I have to haul them all in a trailer, my son lives an hour away, so it's easier if I bring everything to where we are meeting. I just look at it as a "portable garage"!!!

posted 12-29-2010 10:48 PM                  

Some shots of the tie downs for Joe:

posted 12-29-2010 10:51 PM                  

Rear Strap:

Trailer hitch on the upper lift:

posted 12-29-2010 11:40 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by idive:
On another note, you're tires are filthy!

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That's cause you drove us through some mud on the way to Goodson's

The strap location beyond the motor mount keeps the strap from rubbing the bottom of the front fascia. Look at the 3rd pic, it is very close! The frame bends in and upward and wont allow you enough angle to clear the front of the car. I tried running it through and it does rub. And if I put the Tie Down Ring any closer to the car, I couldn't operate the ratchet, so it was a trade off. That was kinda why I wanted Joe to see how it looked. You have seen us load, it's a tight fit in there!!! But there are ways to make it work and keep the cars secure.

posted 12-30-2010 01:13 AM                  

Click on the link above to see 6 pages of cargo control and logistics products. I have plenty more that are not on my website. Custom ratchets and straps are also available.

------------------
Larry (Cruise Control) Lord
Larry@FMBbox.com
Products for your Prowler and Trailer:
Wonder Bar Stabilizer Bars - Upright Trailer Storage Stands - Deck Lid Hinge Protectors - Trailer Latch Reinforcement Kits - Keyed Alike Chrome Coupler Locksets - Chrome Receiver Locks - Chrome Coupler Locks
FMB Prowler Products
FMB Truck Outfitters

posted 12-30-2010 09:11 AM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by phil2237:
You live here in California, watch how they tow all the high end cars here. The holdown straps go thru the rims, this does not put any pressure on the ball joints or any of the suspension. Kurt Schartz towed his Prowler from Southern California to Tulsa, Did a 360 on Interstate 40 near Needles California. The car never moved on the trailer. The trailer and tow vehicle were damaged, and the Prowler was only damaged due to the trailer spare tire coming loose & striking the Prowler at the right rear wheel. By strapping thru the rims, the car will float on its own suspension.

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That's an option, Phil, and I suppose you could consider my Monte a "high end" car but I would never put the straps through the rims because it would probably make for some nasty rub marks.

The Monte gets secured by the frame in the front and around the axles in the rear. I'd rather go to the frame in the rear, but with the tubbing and 4-link there, I don't really have a place to do it.

Ideally, you want to go to the frame. If not, then the car is not effectively "part" of the trailer. Any movement the trailer experiences will be amplified by the additional movement of the car. If the trailer sways, that sway can be increased by the vehicle moving on the suspension inside the trailer.

An exaggerated scenario would be my long travel sand rail - 22" of suspension travel in the front and 24" in the rear. If I tied that thing down to the suspension parts only and didn't lock the actual frame to the trailer, it would be bouncing and rolling all over the place on my way to the dunes. The effect is smaller with a car like a Prowler which has a much smaller amount of suspension travel, but you see the point. Not saying going to the frame is mandatory on a street vehicle...it's just best to do that if you can.

I'm actually home this weekend, so I'll get the Prowler out of my single trailer and mess around with loading it into the stacker. I could drive the Prowler onto the lift, set the brake and lift it up so I can tie it from the underside. However, that requires me to remove the center floor section of the lift and also store the Prowler on top. I kind of wanted to store it on the bottom so we don't have to unload the Monte first in order to drive the Prowler. Worse problems to have, I guess.