posted 08-17-2013 07:31 AM                  

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posted 08-17-2013 04:57 PM                  

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Its possible that the fuel is also causing a problem with the rubber type, small seal within the pump housing....I'll look for a picture of it.

The blue pen shows where a portion of the rubber seal blows out, thus causing fuel pump complete failure......either due to debris or chemical reactions?
The tiny small piece is the portion that came off.
This condition will NOT result in hard starting of the car, but rather complete fuel delivery stoppage to the engine fuel rail.

posted 08-21-2013 01:00 PM                  

Mick,,yes, that was from the top portion when opening up the fuel pump assembly

posted 03-03-2014 03:24 AM                  

Wallbro GCA761-2-255LPH

One the site this is what you are going to see
Notice the little red tool? it will be convenient later.

Now you need to unplug the 2 hoses, and electrical cable that leads next to Tranny fluid dipstick. See next pic

Unplug connector next to dipstick, being careful to release the red safety clip (but do not force out)

Then the following instructions have been posted by others. I forgot to keep taking pictures...

But one things I realized after the fact, is that little red tool...

Was supposed to be used to open/pry open the white cylinder, where the pump is housed into. I used 3 very small screwdrivers, and was afraid to "BREAK" the 3 plastic retainers/edges.... and I could have broken them, making the re-assembly of the pump into the cylinder impossible.... but it is only after the fact that I realized that the little red tool was supposed to be used to "PRY open" the pump out of the cylinder.

You will see when you reach this step.

Make sure you do not fill up your tank before doing this work, as when you open up the tank, (at pump location) fuel will leak all over the place. The Fuel pump cylinder will be full of Gasoline, and will be needed to be emptied. Once you have taken out the pump out of the "white cylinder", the hardest thing will be to get the proper wire connectors adapted to the new pump. But that is pretty easy. It is recommended to do a little soldering of your connection for "true"/ no fault electrical connection. OF COURSE, MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO GASOLINE AROUND, if you are using open flame "mini torch", or welding gun just to be extra safe.

Then, install fule filter, re-install pump into white canister, and then pump assembly into fuel tank.

I had to mess around with the rubber gasket that fits around the round cover on fuel tank... it kept coming off every time I began spinning cover closed. It can be tedious, and patience testing.

The cover is fairly tight/stiff to turn closed. Please put a mark with a "sharpie" on the edge of the cover before you spin it open, this way you will know, how far to spin it close at the end., so the 2 Hoses match the location of the top plugs, and you know it was tight enough from factory settings, and that you do not overtighten, and doubting yourself if it was not! the mark will assure you.

Then you car will start like a charm everytime!... it is such a great feelings

All of the above took me about 1.5 hours.

it is true that I had help from a Mechanics shop, But I did most of the work myself. The shop had the tool to open the Fuel tank for me, and one mechanic helped me with the "3 screwdrivers" to release the pump out of the housing, (not knowing about the RED tool), and also soldered the wire connectors for me with a "mini torch" the size of a BIC lighter, but I did the rest. Was fun.