posted 03-03-2014 03:40 AM                  

Here it is

I got my Fuel pump at FuelPumpfactory.com for $108 I paid extra shiping, cuz I needed it "yesterday" type of thing...

I heard some people have spent as much as $450 for a EOM fuel pump....it is not needed to waste $$ when the Wallbro that fits a Plymouth Neon is essentially the same as the prowler's except for the 2 electrical connectors that can be replaced easily!

Wallbro GCA761-2-255LPH

On the site this is what you are going to see
Notice the little red tool? it will be convenient later.

Please put a mark with a "sharpie" on the edge of the black plastic rim cover before you spin it open, this way you will know, how far to spin it close at the end., Now you need to unplug the 2 hoses, and electrical cable that leads next to Tranny fluid dipstick. See next pic

Unplug connector next to dipstick, being careful to release the red safety clip (but do not force out)

Then the following instructions have been posted by others. I forgot to keep taking pictures...

But one things I realized after the fact, is that little red tool...

Was supposed to be used to open/pry open the white cylinder, where the pump is housed into. I used 3 very small screwdrivers, and was afraid to "BREAK" the 3 plastic retainers/edges.... and I could have broken them, making the re-assembly of the pump into the cylinder impossible.... but it is only after the fact that I realized that the little red tool was supposed to be used to "PRY open" the pump out of the cylinder.

You will see when you reach this step.

Make sure you do not fill up your tank before doing this work, as when you open up the tank, (at pump location) fuel will leak all over the place. The Fuel pump cylinder will be full of Gasoline, and will be needed to be emptied. Once you have taken out the pump out of the "white cylinder", the hardest thing will be to get the proper wire connectors adapted to the new pump. But that is pretty easy. It is recommended to do a little soldering of your connection for "true"/ no fault electrical connection. OF COURSE, MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO GASOLINE AROUND, if you are using open flame "mini torch", or welding gun just to be extra safe.

Then, install fule filter, re-install pump into white canister, and then pump assembly into fuel tank.

I had to mess around with the rubber gasket that fits around the round cover on fuel tank... it kept coming off every time I began spinning cover closed. It can be tedious, and patience testing.

The cover is fairly tight/stiff to turn closed. Please put a mark with a "sharpie" on the edge of the cover before you spin it open, this way you will know, how far to spin it close at the end., so the 2 Hoses match the location of the top plugs, and you know it was tight enough from factory settings, and that you do not overtighten, and doubting yourself if it was not! the mark will assure you.

Then you car will start like a charm everytime!... it is such a great feelings

All of the above took me about 1.5 hours.

it is true that I had help from a Mechanics shop, But I did most of the work myself. The shop had the tool to open the Fuel tank for me, and one mechanic helped me with the "3 screwdrivers" to release the pump out of the housing, (not knowing about the RED tool), and also soldered the wire connectors for me with a "mini torch" the size of a BIC lighter, but I did the rest. Was fun.

Michel

posted 03-03-2014 04:35 AM                  

I saw your post a moment ago... and suddenly it disappeared including my 2nd of 2 part post that vanished..... including your post....I dunno what happened!

posted 03-04-2014 12:04 PM                  

here it is

http://milehiprowlers.fr.yuku.com/topic/33/Prowler-Fuel-Pump-Change#.UxYWMBZA-vI

Have fun!

Michel

posted 03-04-2014 12:46 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by onecatnodog:
If you are very carful the plugin that is on the new pump can be removed and your old one installed not having to cut the Wires at all.. You will need to order the new style "O' ring as it is flat on both sides and will seal better than the old factory round one on the Tank Cap.. The one included in the kit is for the Neon tank and will not fit.. I buy them direct now from summit racing and the Turbo SRT 4 pump is what we use to feed the 5.0 V/6 Stroker engines that we put into the Prowlers.. If you type in Farmer Fix Fuel Pump on this great site I did a multy pictured display on how to do it.. Or you can go to the Milehiprowers.com site and it is also there under Prowler Fuel Pump..

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Does anyone know where I can get this new style O-ring? I keep hearing about it but I never see a part number or a link on where to buy it. I want to make sure I get the right one. Thanks!

posted 03-05-2014 12:04 PM                  

At Autozone, or order from their website or store....probably not in stock at the stores but only takes a few days to get one... About $20

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http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Fuel-pump-module-spanne r-wrench?itemIdentifier=110278

posted 11-05-2016 09:55 PM                  

Not sure the cost but it is reasonable, call JEFFERSON auto from vendors here on POA if you need a pump.

posted 11-05-2016 10:14 PM                  

when the tank is full, the wires/connectors are submerged in gasoline, but when your tank runs on empty ( and i may be wrong on this) but i personally would not want a spark happen inside the tank igniting the volatile fumes!! and Kaboom!!!

posted 11-11-2016 07:09 PM                  

quote:

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Originally posted by Michelredcat:
I had help with a mechanic and since the wire connectors were not exactly the same size, the mechanic suggested to "solder" the wires together. You surely do not want the connectors to come loose inside the tank and create an "arching" spark...

when the tank is full, the wires/connectors are submerged in gasoline, but when your tank runs on empty ( and i may be wrong on this) but i personally would not want a spark happen inside the tank igniting the volatile fumes!! and Kaboom!!!

Be safe, not sorry.

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In the thread I did on replacing the pump the correct connectors and crimp tool is listed.

For anyone wanting to use the SRT4 pump should get the connectors before removing the pump.

The thought of soldering them didn't spark my interest. If you pulled my pump out it looks factory.

But for anyone needing to change their pump might just want to contact Tom Mills for a drop in replacement.

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Larry & Sue Mayes