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Author Topic:   Ball joint failure at 40 MPH.
kayaksrfr1069


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posted 02-01-2018 02:49 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kayaksrfr1069     send a private message to kayaksrfr1069   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by kayaksrfr1069
Pic from the auction is below, havent rcvd them yet. Look a bit yellowed from the pics compared to yours, manuf. date says 2016. Either way you're not gonna see them LOL...

Like I said only time will tell if this is actually going to work or not.

CAT-A-TONIC


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posted 02-02-2018 12:29 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CAT-A-TONIC     send a private message to CAT-A-TONIC   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by CAT-A-TONIC
Couple of things from my own perspective regarding the recall kit. I believe that as time has gone by the original kits have been long gone and at some time they've put replacement items in the kits that work but aren't as in the originals. Not the ball joints themselves but the washers and the replacement nuts. The washers were not original equipment and the size of them didn't make sense in this application. I did not use them when I did my replacement job. Second....the replacement nuts. They are different than the originals. The bottom of them have these gnarly teeth that I guarantee you while torquing in place are going to chew right into the aluminum steering knuckles. I did not use them and reused my originals. If you do the job yourself you will notice that the boot once torqued in place has been collapsed to the max. Stresses the boot which IMO is part of the boot failures along with the top of the boot it self riding on the bottom face of the knuckle. Every time you turn the steering wheel left or right it wants to slightly twist the boot. Doesn't take long for a small stress tear to develop into a split.
kayaksrfr1069


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posted 02-04-2018 12:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kayaksrfr1069     send a private message to kayaksrfr1069   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by kayaksrfr1069
CAT this is where Im hoping adding an additional layer of the shrink tubing will help, not just in he boot being squashed down but with any torsional stress placed on the boot during turning. I just got the BJs in and the boots are a thin gelatin-ish material that doesnt seem like it would hold up to much abuse at all esp in our application.

A few other things Im considering is to smooth out the bottom of the bottom of the plate that contacts the boot to reduce friction, or possibly adding a thin teflon washer to ride between the boot shoulder and the spindle plate.

This message has been edited by kayaksrfr1069 on 02-04-2018 at 12:23 PM

CAT-A-TONIC


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posted 02-04-2018 12:54 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CAT-A-TONIC     send a private message to CAT-A-TONIC   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by CAT-A-TONIC
Not sure if shrink tube would be applicable in this environment. You might get it around the boot but once you shrink it, it'll be crushed once you install it. You may create a problem, don't know for sure. This crappy boot material just doesn't seem to hold up. Look at the top Ball joint and you see a normal looking black boot. Never heard of one of those splitting. Probably at this point it might be wise just to install two news ones and be on top of those from a maintenance stand point. The boots get pretty polluted by brake and road dust so keeping them clean may help.
kayaksrfr1069


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posted 02-05-2018 07:21 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for kayaksrfr1069     send a private message to kayaksrfr1069   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by kayaksrfr1069
Thats what Im doing, Im installing 2 new ones but before I do Im reinforcing them with the shrink tubing.
GaryE





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posted 02-05-2018 09:34 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for GaryE     send a private message to GaryE   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by GaryE
I think this is not a good idea. Shrink tubing is not very flexible. I think you will be creating a bigger problem. Be very careful when using some untested method. You will void any Chrysler warranty. We need to get Chrysler to fix the problem and provide a better ball joint.

------------------

CAT-A-TONIC


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posted 02-05-2018 12:37 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for CAT-A-TONIC     send a private message to CAT-A-TONIC   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by CAT-A-TONIC
Who knows if there's a ball joint out there that can take the pounding. Maybe a larger one but that would probably not fit into the stock knuckle without mods. And who knows if the knuckle has enough meat to modify.
kayaksrfr1069


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posted 02-05-2018 02:33 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kayaksrfr1069     send a private message to kayaksrfr1069   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by kayaksrfr1069
Gary I agree, but at this point there is no warranty. We're talking about a very limited production vehicle that is 15 years out of production. If they haven't worked on coming up with a better solution at this point, they have no intentions to. Fact is, short of a major injury/death lawsuit they are not going to do anything about the problem so we need to come up with solutions of our own. I agree that shrink tubing isn't very flexible but that's my point... it should help with torsional stress on the boot and keep it from flexing during turns. I am waiting on the marine grade tubing to show up, which I think is also more rubberized and a better material than standard shrink tubing. I wont know how this will all go until I get everything in and start putting it together, right now these are just ideas im throwing around.

worst case scenario the tubing splits and the boot underneath does what it does. Either way Im going to try it and find out.

padroo



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posted 02-05-2018 06:32 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
I know a lot of people have an opinion on the Prowler lower ball joins but this is my opinion. The ball joint should have been designed with the stud facing down on the lower ball joint.

Here is a young man with the answer, I believe he is correct.

You can watch the whole thing but the part I am talking about is at the 24 minute mark.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=51GhM7hZ5b8

kayaksrfr1069


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posted 02-05-2018 07:15 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kayaksrfr1069     send a private message to kayaksrfr1069   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by kayaksrfr1069
Padroo that makes a lot of sense... And would also pretty much rule out the boot degradation being the cause of the issue and lean more towards road conditions and spirited driving. Unfortunately because it would require a complete replacement of the spindle and lower control arm it pretty much guarantees we wont see a fix from DC for this other than to keep providing ball joints (which they dont seem to be doing either). If the NHTSA is only seeing a few issues from this per year it'll be completely overlooked.

Sorry if Im stating the obvious or bringing up other people's points Im just trying to catch up and maybe provide some other ideas.

This message has been edited by kayaksrfr1069 on 02-05-2018 at 07:24 PM

padroo



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posted 02-05-2018 07:30 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
quote:
Originally posted by kayaksrfr1069:
Padroo that makes a lot of sense... And would also pretty much rule out the boot degradation being the cause of the issue and lean more towards road conditions and spirited driving. Unfortunately because it would require a complete replacement of the spindle and lower control arm it pretty much guarantees we wont see a fix from DC for this other than to keep providing ball joints (which they dont seem to be doing either). If the NHTSA is only seeing a few issues from this per year it'll be completely overlooked.

Sorry if Im stating the obvious or bringing up other people's points Im just trying to catch up and maybe provide some other ideas.


The Prowlers won't generate enough complaints mostly because of their numbers. There will be no fix but I followed the video and I think he makes a valid point.
I have never been much of a suspension guy, if it breaks I just fix it and go on with my life. I have never replaced one of my own ball joints but have for other people. If I were designing a car I would find out what works and what doesn't and go with that.

akboy


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posted 02-24-2018 04:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for akboy     send a private message to akboy   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by akboy
Does anyone have good part #'s for lower and upper ball joints. The Prowler parts book (2001) doesn't even point too or mention ball joints. The picture with Mopar CBBTC 030 doesn't come up any longer. Thanks
robin


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posted 02-24-2018 05:44 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for robin     send a private message to robin   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robin
At this point and time we are facing a shortage of just the ball joint.

The arms upper and lower are available with a new ball joint but the cost is

Front
Drivers upper
4865321AA

Front
Passengers upper
4865320AA

Front
Drivers Lower
4865323AA

Front
Passengers Lower
4865322AA

Rear
Drivers Lower
4865319AA

Rear
Passengers Lower
4865318AA


#4
4865322AA
Lower Control Arm, RIGHT
961.00

There are only a few places that have stock of just the ball joint 300 dollars.

This message has been edited by robin on 02-24-2018 at 05:53 PM

kayaksrfr1069


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posted 02-24-2018 09:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for kayaksrfr1069     send a private message to kayaksrfr1069   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by kayaksrfr1069
I was finally able to install the new ball joints modified with a covering of shrink tubing and it went very well. I'm confident it will add some protection from oxidation of that crappy gel material as well as adding torsional strength to the boot while turning. It's easy to see how that material will come apart right at that fold over time:

Here is what the new BJ looks like with the shrink tubing:

And here is what it looks like installed:

Using Onecat's great instructions as a guide I had a fairly easy time with the install (although there's no way I was getting this done in an hour).

I used a 1.5" diameter dual wall marine grade shrink tubing that also has a heat activated adhesive that I found on ebay, it has a bit more elasticity than standard shrink tubing. I cut it oversized and then trimmed the top so the original boot is exposed at the top. I then trimmed around the bottom retainer ring. When installing, you need to flip the shrink tubing up at the bottom to get it to fit through the hole for the press fit:

Once the BJ is pressed into place simply flip it back down over the bottom of the boot and proceed with the rest of the install.

Again, only time will tell if this is an effective fix for the problem but at least the boot will be better protected.

This message has been edited by kayaksrfr1069 on 02-24-2018 at 09:50 PM

padroo



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posted 02-25-2018 10:57 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for padroo     send a private message to padroo   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by padroo
I still say the biggest threat to the rubber boot is so called professionals greasing a car with a high pressure grease gun. I grease mine myself and by hand with one finger on the boot as soon as I feel pressure being applied I stop.

Thanks for the good pictures, i'm sure it will help make the boot last longer.

BradleyG


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posted 04-12-2018 12:05 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for BradleyG     send a private message to BradleyG   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BradleyG
Thanks to Robin, I have the new ball joints. I need to get this back on the road. It appears to be an easy repair, but I have an injury that prevents me from doing it myself.

Went to the local Chrysler dealer that has a Viper/Prowler/Crossfire mechanic. He told me that it can only be repaired with replacing the entire lower control arm. Then it requires an alignment which takes a "Special procedure" and will cost $190 for alignment.

I took him a copy of the approved Chrysler repair procedure (TSB) last Friday and can't get him to call me back. Thinking that this may not be the best place to take it eventhough I have had good experience there in the past.

MY question... It seems like an easy job for a good mechanic. Any reason I HAVE to take it to a "Certified Prowler technician"? I would like your thoughts.

ALLEY CAT





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posted 04-12-2018 01:17 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for ALLEY CAT     send a private message to ALLEY CAT   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by ALLEY CAT
Quote/Question: "Any reason I HAVE to take it to a "Certified Prowler technician"? I would like your thoughts"

Brad,,, I doubt there are many 'Prowler techs' still around at dealerships, or admitting they are one.... Check with other dealerships that sell many Vipers, and check with their Viper tech directly with your questions about the change. I'm thinking you will find the right place to take your car,,,,it will be worth a drive.

$190 for an alignment? Rather steep....

Good luck my friend,,,

alprowl



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posted 04-12-2018 02:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for alprowl     send a private message to alprowl   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by alprowl
I had my ball joints changed by a local speed shop that a friend of mine owns... They did it without problems
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posted 04-12-2018 02:47 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for TFischer     send a private message to TFischer   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by TFischer
Brad have you spoken to the service manager there? That seems ridiculous to me. I would think that if you had the notice in hand and spoke to him that they would take care of you. Have you called Linda Hammond to see if she can tell you another dealership to try. I know she moved to Audi Dallas. I would bet she would know the name of a Viper Tech in Dallas that can handle it for you or another garage that can.
NiteProwl64

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posted 04-12-2018 03:53 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for NiteProwl64     send a private message to NiteProwl64   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by NiteProwl64
I thought everyone might find this information useful, and I quote:

"The company received notice from the NHTSA Office of Defect Investigations of 2 field reports describing separation of the lower control arm ball joint on 1999 MY Prowler vehicles, and subsequently opened PE02-062 on August 13, 2002.

The company identified five additional reports of lower control arm ball joint separation.

The lower control arm ball joints on 5 company fleet vehicles were inspected. Three of the 10 joints inspected had torn boot, and four others were found to be distorted. It was not clear if there was a consistent cause of the boot tears, or if the boot distortion could eventually result in joint separation.

A review of parts returned from the field revealed that although there was evidence of boot damage, there was no specific causal issue that could be identified.

It was suspected that heat from the brake rotor might cause boot distortion. However subsequent severe braking tests done on an instrumented vehicle at the Chrysler Proving Grounds confirmed that brake heat was not causing boot distortion.

Other possible causes for boot tears or distortion were investigated.

Further analysis of returned parts suggest that an internal boot support collar within the ball joint assembly could be causing seal tears by cutting the seal from the inside. A design review determined that although there was no internal interference by design between the boot and this collar, this clearance was small (1.0mm)

An X-ray analysis of knuckle and ball joint/control arm assemblies was set up to further investigate this possibility, This analysis showed that there was contact between the boot and the internal collar on the ball stud after the ball joint was installed into some knuckle assemblies. This established that variable pull up into the knuckle assembly could potentially cause an interference condition that may eventually lead to boat degradation.

A separated ball joint received from a field return showed no evidence of boot damage. This suggested that a loss of sealing could potentially also occur due to torsional loading (twisting) of the boot.

A design analysis of the part revealed that interference with the collar as well as the tendency for torsional twisting could be eliminated with two changes. The undercut taper of the ball joint stud inside the boot area could be removed since this feature was not required for the Prowler application. Subsequently elimination of the undercut area will also allow the internal collar to be removed, preventing a potential cause of internal boot cutting."


NiteProwl64

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posted 04-12-2018 04:01 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for NiteProwl64     send a private message to NiteProwl64   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by NiteProwl64
I know this is posted in the other thread that Robin has going, but its worth noting that even the recall investigation contradicts itself. It was a redesign for the sake of redesign. It clearly didn't fix the problem. Getting these ball joints is becoming a problem that is only going to get worse.
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posted 04-12-2018 08:22 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Beachkat2     send a private message to Beachkat2   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by Beachkat2
It would be nice to have a special tool for the prowler that can accurately measure wear and play in the balljoint. Maybe there is such a tool on the market. I think we would have more confidence if we had a specification for when the ball joint needs to be replaced.
robin


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posted 04-13-2018 09:35 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for robin     send a private message to robin   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robin
I think the safest way is to check visually for boot damage.
Even dab a little grease on the top of boot and under spindle to allow the boot to stay stationary and not get torqued by the spindle when it turns thus causing a tear..
Use the proper torque spec don't over tighten...
As they get older check more frequently.

How to check Ball Joints.
Video: http://youtu.be/62bVn7E8gyk?t=46
See your owners manual for correct jacking points.
You don't have to lift both sides at once. One side at a time is fine.

This message has been edited by robin on 04-13-2018 at 09:41 AM

robin


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posted 04-13-2018 09:48 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for robin     send a private message to robin   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by robin
Seems there is a tool but sounds like a trained mechanic is required and the cost of the gauge.
Depends on type of ball joint.

http://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/suspension/measure-ball-joint-wear/

BradleyG


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posted 04-13-2018 10:15 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for BradleyG     send a private message to BradleyG   Edit/Delete Message   Reply w/Quote   Search for more posts by BradleyG
Thank you all for replys.
Dealer Service rep called. He was too slammed to call me back Monday and Tuesday and was off Wed and Thur. $450 to change Ball Joints, plus alignment for $190. I expressed concern about the Viper tech thinking the whole control arm had to be replaced. Rep told me that is what he thought, not the tech. I feel better about them now since this same Viper tech is the one that found the loose bolts in my drive shaft a few years ago.

I searched for an alternative to replace the ball joints this week. I stopped by a local Sears Auto shop because I found a groupon to do alignment for $59. ASE Certified mechanic told me that he had not worked on a Prowler before, but did some checking and said that it is not that different from other vehicles especially after seeing the Chrysler TSB to replace ball joints and my Prowler tool set. They have Prowler specs for alignment and can do that too. Price is $336 for ball joint replacement showing 2.8 hours labor, plus $59 for alignment.

Who would you use? Viper Tech for $640 or ASE mechanic at Sears for $395.


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